Oct 292009
 

I forage for a living. Collect. Glean. Hunt.  Rather than growing, I look out into the world to see what nature has to offer.  Instead of deciding what a plot of land will provide, I let the plants decide.  Choosing where and when they flower.  Wild mushrooms, acorns, blackberries, seaweed. All these and more are my stock and trade, the stuff of my life.  The changing seasons, from spring, with its abundance of greens, to summer, with seaweeds and Seabeans, to fall, with acorns and huckleberries, and finally winter, with the rains come an endless abundance of wild mushrooms.  Chanterelle, matsutake, hedgehog, wild radish, black oak, Salicornia pacifica, mychorizzal, minus tides .  Foraging has changed the way I look at the world.

Let me explain. A year ago I started a business/community, forageSF. I started it with the idea to bring wild local edibles to an urban population.  Creating fulfilling jobs for my neighbors, while exposing a whole new populace to the amazing wealth of wild foods growing just outside their doors.  Foraging changes the way you see the world.  With a little knowledge, a non-descript blanket of green is transformed.  It bursts forth, and becomes miners lettuce, chickweed, and wild radish flowers, all delicious salad additions.  From the trail-side “toadstools” burst chanterelles, matsutake, and morel mushrooms, some of the most sought after foods on the planet.  The winter rains cease to be a thing to lament, but instead something to yearn for,with dreams of your secret mushroom spots in full bloom.

Food  has become very important lately. From Slow Food to Weston Price, people are beginning to view food as more than simple sustenance.  People call it a movement.  The food movement.  A movement based around consumption . Not consumption in the sense that we’ve come to know the word, as the end result of our collective inhalation of the worlds resources. This is a consumption based on a keen awareness of what we’re eating, where it comes from, what it means, how it connects us to the past, and how it nourishes us both physically and culturally.  The life of the pig from birth to death is something that we have come to care about.  Wild boar is sought after, because we feel that animal had a full and healthy life.  This is revolutionary.  We’ve spent the last 50 years giving little thought to what went into our bodies. Ignoring thousands of years of accumulated human knowledge, we chose microwaves, frozen dinners, and twinkies.  Freeze dried, pre-packed “nutrition”, has replaced common sense. Our ancestors didn’t need to read a nutrition label to know something was good for them.  That knowledge was passed down through millennia of trial and error.  Generations of humans who had eaten and thrived off foods that nourish. The culture of our species is tied to its food, and for too long we have ignored that culture in favor of convenience.  In one generation we have forgotten the lessons of hundreds of past generations. Those who hunted, fished, canned, grew, foraged, and thrived.  Foraging is not a new phenomenon.  It is the oldest example of food. When we forage, we connect ourselves with a lineage that dates back to our first ancestors, and a cultural tradition that is in serious danger of being forgotten.


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I recently heard an interview of an author who’s written a book called “where locavores get it wrong…”.  His basic thesis is that for someone who is concerned with the carbon footprint of their food, local is often not the right choice. It often is of course, but sometimes it makes more sense to import snap peas from Uganda than it does to walk down to the farmers market.  I guess this is true. I imagine the man did his research, as he was being interviewed on a show I trust, so I’m going to  take it as a given that he’s not lying. So that begs the question…why eat local?  If we can get snap peas year round from disparate corners of the globe, always snappy and fresh (or at least fresh-ish), and at the same time reduce our carbon footprint, why all this talk of eating local?

The answer that I’ve come to (full disclosure, Michael Pollan was also on the show, and he had a similar idea to the one I’m about to espouse, but I swear I thought it before he said it on the show) is that local food is about more than food. Wild food is about more than food.  People love wild foods, they’re clearly delicious, often more nutritious (and I believe if the author had done his research on foraged foods he would have found they are much more carbon efficient, but put that aside for a second), but I’m not sure that’s the main reason people love them. To me wild food is almost more about the connection to the place I live. I’ve lived in San Francisco for two years now (just had my anniversary), and I feel more a part of this place that almost anywhere else on earth.  I’ve explored more of the Bay than I have in VT, and I grew up there. I meet people every day that are interested in what I’m doing, and want to be involved. I know that a week after the first rains I’m going to mushroom forage, I know who I’m going with, I know what I will (or should) find. I’m honestly looking forward to going up to Mendecino next week to collect acorns, and making plans for the best way to get to the wild onions before the landscapers get them next spring. I feel a part of this place, and that has all sprung from my interest in the foods of this place.  I throw dinners that have become some of the most memorable meals of my life. I know chefs all over the city, and always know if I have a question about the food business I can ask Ian at Far West Fungi.  The people I call friends are the people who are actively working towards changing the way America eats. Creative people who, through their creativity, inspire people to see the world in a different way.

Local food is about much more it’s carbon footprint. That’s important of course, but what the local food movement is really about goes beyond the eating. It goes to a connection with the place you live, and the people that make that place important. When you buy a mushroom from a forager (or a farmer), you support that person, their community, expand your own community, and get to know the place you call home just a little bit better.

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 September 9, 2009  Posted by at 1:51 am california, eating, forage san francisco, foraged food, iso rabins, local food 1 Response »

check out the new story on alternet on forageSF. http://www.alternet.org/environment/142420/

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Aug 222009
 

sea beans 4 ways

In lead up to the Eat Real festival next weekend, where forageSF will be selling in the marketplace (come visit!), I’m doing some recipe experimentation. We’re going to be there on Saturday and Sunday, near the Embarcadero st entrance to the marketplace (not sure if that’s a good location, never been to Jack London Square).  We are also going to be there on friday for the foraging/canning exchange, where I will give a seabean cooking demo, as well as have wild food experts on hand to answer all your urban edible questions.

Eat Real is letting eat vendor sell one product, and since sea beans hold a special place in my heart (and since I’m going foraging next week for them) I figured I’d go with that. I’m going to be selling both fresh and packaged, and I’m trying to decide what the perfect recipe is.  Today I did…Seabeans with garlic, seabeans with garlic and lemon juice, seabeans with garlic, ginger and sesame, seabeans with garlic, ginger, sesame, onions and porcini.

I settled on the porcini.  It’s great how the mushroom and onion flavors mingle with the saltiness of the sea beans, and it also makes it more of a dish, adding the veggies and fungi. Here’s what I did….

Since it’s the off season for local mushrooms, I used dried porcini.  I actually prefer porcini dried in some instances, the dehydration really concentrated the flavor.

1 oz dried porcini

2 shallots – sliced

2 cups sea beans

butter

olive oil

2 cloves garlic – minced

1 inch plug ginger – minced

First, soak porcini for 15-20 minutes in cold water, then slice thin.Heat a mixture of butter and 1 tbsp butter over medium heat, then add onions, cook until onions start to caramelize, then add garlic and porcini, stirring often to make sure garlic doesn’t burn. A line cook trick is to throw a small splash of water into the pan if you see the garlic starting to brown.  Now you add the sea beans, stir to incorporate, and then turn heat to low, cover, cook 8 minutes. take off cover, turn heat up to cook off any liquid. serve. easy and delicious, good as a side.  Sauteing seabeans is a great way to eat them, because it takes away some of that intense saltiness, and lets the other flavors creep in.

If you want to see how I do it, come check it out, friday at 6 pm at jack london square…check the Eat Real site for exact address.

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Wild Radish Seed Pods

Wild Radish seed pods are my most recent  discovery.  As if the months of delicious leaves and flowers the wild radish provides weren’t enough, here they come with seedpods. I like to saute them up to garnish salad, but they can also be steamed.

Wild Radish is english for Raphanus raphanistrum, in the family Brassicaceae. It is a winter annual with highly lobed leaves covered in short stiff hairs.  It grows more or less everywhere in the Bay Area. When you look out into a field covered with small white or yellow flowers, its probably wild radish.

Wild_radish

Wild mustard (Brassica kaber) grows in the same area, and can be distinguished by its yellow flowers.  The problem is that wild radish and mustard like to interbreed (hybridize if you will), to such an extent, that you rarely see either pure white or pure yellow flowers. Generally they’re white with yellow or purple interior tint.  I personally don’t think it really matters.  I’ve noticed that leaves that seem more mustard than radish are more tender, and a bit spicier.  The seedpods seem more or less the same.

Once you find a good patch of pods, its easy to collect a couple pounds in 20 minutes.  The technique I’ve settled on is to grab the stem close to the base, and slide my hand up, pulling off pods into my hands as I go.  It’s incredibly satisfying to hear the pop pop pop as they slide off the stem.  I usually cook them together, and they always turn out good. Unfortunatly the season for these has pretty much passed (although I was up at mt.tam leading a plant walk on sunday, and saw a couple), so store this knowledge away for next year. Below is a recipe, with bacon, for these delicious little treasures.

Serves 4

1/2 lb (4-5 handfulls) of seed pods

1/2 lb bacon (Get it from bi-rite or some other reputable source. We’re lucky to have a great local meat economy in the bay, its a shame not to use it. Know your meat!)

4-6 heads little gem greens (marin roots has the best, but not cheap)

8 Nastertium flowers

2.5 oz  Stilton Blue Cheese (about 3 Tbsp)

6 Tbsp cider vinegar

2 Tbsp heavy cream

1/4 Cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp sugar

Dressing: Add vinegar and cream, then whisk together with some salt and pepper. Whisk in the sugar until it dissolves, and then whisk in half of the cheese. Gradually whisk in the olive oil. Add seasoning to taste

Seed Pods: Cut the bacon into 1 inch chunks, and cook over medium heat until it releases some of its fat.  Throw in Seed pods, and saute  until tender (about 4 minutes), add salt and pepper to taste.

Wash and dry the Little Gems.  Cut off the end, and, using your hands, toss in mixing bowl with 2 Tbsp dressing and 1/4 C seed pods.  Arrange on plate, with 2 nastertium flowers. Crumble remaining cheese on top.

That’s it! Unfortunatly I don’t have any good pictures of this salad, but if you make it, be sure to send me a photo, Ill put it on my site.

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ForageSF is teaming up with the Eat Real festival to organize a series of guided forages, a wild food dinner with Radio Afrika to benefit La Cucina, as well as a foraging identification/canning exchange in Jack London square. There will be two sets of walks, one sometime in early August that will end in a dinner focused on wild foraged food.  Walk around the city learning what plants are edible, then get to eat a delicious meal made with those very same plants. The second set will be on Friday August 28th.  We’ll all go out, forage around for a couple hours, then meet in Jack London square to identify/exchange/can what we found.  I’ll also be giving a talk on forageSF, and wild food in general.  Should be a good time.  This is all still in planning, but check out http://eatrealfest.com/ in a couple weeks for more info.

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Jan 092009
 
 January 9, 2009  Posted by at 8:41 am local food, museum, OPEN restaurant, san francisco, slow food, ybca, yerba buena No Responses »

ForageSF had its first public appearance on jan 6. At YBCA I was a panelist for the Slow Food/OPEN restaurant event.  It was a cool experience.  Getting to sit around a table made out of compost with 11 other people who do things that I find incredibly interesting. Met some good people, saw some people I already knew.  The structure of the event was that a table of 12 panelists sat around the aforementioned compost table.   People from the SFbay food community, Slow Food, Forage Oakland, Chez Panisse, etc.  The table was made of compost (really cool idea, people came up through the meal and put compost into seed planters that were given out with the meal), and the concept was that people from the public (who were all sitting at tables around the perimeter of the room), would come up and talk to us if they had questions about what we did.  I personally think people were a bit confused by the format. What OPEN was trying to do was reorganize the traditional panel (microphones, discussion topics), into a more organic situation.  People coming together to talk about food in a common environment of interest. I thought it was great.

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