Jan 132010
 

Just met with Noriyuki Sugie to talk about Hachi! Its a guest chef project at Bread Bar in LA that Im going to be doing in feb.  All the talk of PR companies and press releases is not exactly what Im used to, but should be a lot of fun.

The concept is that a guest chef comes in once a month and creates 8 dishes (6 savory, 2 sweet), that each sell for $8/each, as well as 3 specialty chef created cocktails ( a lot like the mission street food concept, except that they take reservations, and drinks are $12(( which I guess is pretty standard in LA))).  I guess the idea is to give chefs in LA a chance to get some buzz…since I dont live in LA, Im not sure what it’ll do for me, but it will be an experience to be sure. The fact that Ive never really been to LA should make it even more interesting. If you live in LA, you should come check it out, its in the end of feb.

The planning for the next market is going. This should be a good one.  We’ve got a lot of people writing about it, and over 40 vendors that want to sell their wares, just need to find a space to bring it all together. I have some leads of warehouse spaces in the mission, so it looks like its going to work out. Answering emails is starting to become a full time job, but I may be getting a new intern, so that will help.  I think its really great how interested people are in the market, it seems to have struck a nerve.

FacebookDiggTwitterGoogle BookmarksGoogle ReaderBlogger PostShare
Jan 092010
 

This is the recipe I made for the last Wild Kitchen. It takes a bit of time, homemade beef stock and all, but we’re all about slow food right?  This is a really amazing soup. Long cooking makes the venison very tender, and the addition of fresh stock gives it a deep complex flavor.  I saved what we had left from the dinner (mostly broth), in canning jars in the freezer. I defrost some over rice and heat it up, it’s pretty great just like that.

For the soup:

4 tbsp olive oil

2 lbs Venison stew meat

1 Cup Red wine

1 lb Yukon gold potatoes – quartered

4 Cups flour

Salt Pepper

12 Cups beef stock (see recipe below, although store bought works)

1 Cup chopped onion

1 Cup chopped celery

1/2 Cup chopped carrot

1 Cup chopped tomato (canned works too)

1 Tbsp minced fresh thyme

1 Tbsp  minced fresh rosemary

1 Tbsp minced fresh sage

Wash and thoroughly dry the venison, then roll it in a mixture of flour, salt, and pepper.

Heat a large pot over high heat, then add the oil.  When it is hot but not smoking, sear venison in batches until browned, 2-3 minutes. Don’t crowd the pot, or the meat will stew instead of searing. Remove the meat then add the onions and saute until they begin to color.

Add the celery and carrots. Season with salt and pepper. Saute for 2 minutes. Add the garlic, tomatoes, basil, thyme, and bay leaves to the pot. Season with salt and pepper. Deglaze the pan with the red wine. Add  the beef stock, and bring to a boil.

Reduce to simmer, and cover. You’ll want to Simmer the stew for 1-2 hours, or until the meat is very tender. You can add more stock if it evaporates too much.  Add potatoes about 1/2 hr before soup is done, so they don’t overcook.

I find this stew is really better the next day. Reheating deepens the flavors, and gives the meat more of a chance to tenderize, but it can be served immediately as well. Enjoy!

For the Stock:

4 lbs soup bones

Sprig fresh thyme

1 Bay leaf

2 Carrots

1 Large onion

2 Stalks Celery

2 Cloves garlic

Preheat oven to 475. (If the beef bones are frozen, let them thaw before you start, this can take a couple hours)

Rough chop carrots, celery, and onion.  Put the bones, onion, and carrots, into a shallow roasting pan, then cook about 30 minutes, or until the  bones are browned, and the onions start to carmalize.

Pour off the excess fat and place bones and veggies in stock pot. Pour 1/2 cup red wine into roasting pan and deglaze over medium heat, scrape bottom of pan, and pour this into stock pot.

Then add the bayleaf, celery, thyme, and garlic to pot. Add 12 C water, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, cover, and skim fat  regularly.

Cook for as long as you can, I like to cook it for 8 hours, but 5 works. Strain stock, discard veggies and bones, allow stock to cool 20 minutes. If you are going to use stock immediatly, put in fridge to allow fat to settle, then skim off.  Otherwise, put stock into pint ball jars with the fat on top, this helps the stock to keep. The stock will keep for about  a week in fridge, months in the freezer.

Use it in any soup with beef or venison, or cook it down to make an amazingly concentrated sauce.


FacebookDiggTwitterGoogle BookmarksGoogle ReaderBlogger PostShare
 

So the first of many (hopefully) underground farmers markets is over. It was a total success. People showed up, but not so many that the cops came. Vendors brought enough that there was something for the late comers, but just enough so they sold out. The music was amazing (although I didn’t get to hear as much as I would have liked, tethered to my vendor table). It was a really cool mix of folks; hipsters, seniors, toddlers, old school hippies, young urban farmer types.

The vendors who showed up were….
Slow Jams-Really great Jam, and Shakirah sold out!
- Forage SF
- Will Schrom: homemade sarsaparilla
- Captain Blankenship: soaps and salves
- Garden Fare: edible garden gift boxes
- The Golden Crust: pies ($15-20/pie or $3/slice) and chai
- The Girl From Empanada (aka. Chile Lindo): empanadas
- Lauren & Jon Bowne (aka. Pearl’s Kitchen): homemade Jewish deli fare, they had a pasta and cheese casserole
- Five Flavors Herbs: wild foraged tinctures
- Honey vendor

I think its great that people will come out to support their local producers. The vendors at this market are all pros, they know their stuff, how to make it good, and how to make it safe. The only reason they aren’t legit is money. It was great to see them get an opportunity to get their stuff out there, make some cash, and get some exposure.

So….the health department did show up. Was a pretty nerve wracking couple minutes. I’ve never actually dealt with the health department before, and I must say that I’ve always had the feeling out them that I do about most government organization, dread. They’re scary, showing up with their notebooks, checking boxes, with the power to command an army of police to shut you down….but I must say that the health department was very nice. I was amazed. We had a 10 minute chat about how I might do the market again in the future, and ways to make it more legit. I was totally amazed, and pleased with the interaction. I know what you’re thinking, I’m just writing that to suck up, so they won’t bust me, but it’s true. In the end I wish they hadn’t come at all, but if they had to come (because tipped them off!), then I have to say they came correct (“correct” is what the kids are saying these days).

Apparently they showed up because SOMEONE FROM A LEGIT FARMERS MARKET RATTED US OUT!!!! You hear that!? Can you believe it? I can’t. What happened to community? Supporting our local food producers? I guess only if they have $100/hr to spend on commercial kitchen space do they deserve to share their products. I’d like to know who did it. I’d like to have a conversation with them. If they had concerns about the market, they should have come to me. We could have discussed ways to make it better, they could have helped rather than sicking the hounds on us. Bastards.

But on a lighter note, everything worked out. I had a really good time, hundreds of people came, we had some drinks, ate some food, met some great people, listened to some music, and made some cash. Doesn’t get much better.

If you missed this one, and are interested in finding out when/where we’re doing it again, sign up for our email list.

Check out our facebook page for more pics from the market

FacebookDiggTwitterGoogle BookmarksGoogle ReaderBlogger PostShare
 
 November 23, 2009  Posted by at 2:03 am foragesf, foraging, poison oak, san francisco, wild food 4 Responses »

1.  Just because you didn’t get it last time you were in the woods doesn’t mean you won’t get it this time

2. When you’re in the woods and feel the urge to relieve yourself, don’t.  hold it until you can wash your hands.

3. Clean and Clear cleanser keeps a rash down like nothing else (not sure why)

4. Don’t scratch your ear (or your stomach, or your face, or your legs, or your neck) when in the woods

5. The people who tell you to scrub the rash until it bleeds are completely insane

6. Baths are bad

7. Lukewarm showers are good

8. Red wine is bad

9. If there is a god, he is a spiteful god for making scratching feel so good.

10. Last word. Technu. It’s a miracle soap.

FacebookDiggTwitterGoogle BookmarksGoogle ReaderBlogger PostShare
Oct 292009
 

I forage for a living. Collect. Glean. Hunt.  Rather than growing, I look out into the world to see what nature has to offer.  Instead of deciding what a plot of land will provide, I let the plants decide.  Choosing where and when they flower.  Wild mushrooms, acorns, blackberries, seaweed. All these and more are my stock and trade, the stuff of my life.  The changing seasons, from spring, with its abundance of greens, to summer, with seaweeds and Seabeans, to fall, with acorns and huckleberries, and finally winter, with the rains come an endless abundance of wild mushrooms.  Chanterelle, matsutake, hedgehog, wild radish, black oak, Salicornia pacifica, mychorizzal, minus tides .  Foraging has changed the way I look at the world.

Let me explain. A year ago I started a business/community, forageSF. I started it with the idea to bring wild local edibles to an urban population.  Creating fulfilling jobs for my neighbors, while exposing a whole new populace to the amazing wealth of wild foods growing just outside their doors.  Foraging changes the way you see the world.  With a little knowledge, a non-descript blanket of green is transformed.  It bursts forth, and becomes miners lettuce, chickweed, and wild radish flowers, all delicious salad additions.  From the trail-side “toadstools” burst chanterelles, matsutake, and morel mushrooms, some of the most sought after foods on the planet.  The winter rains cease to be a thing to lament, but instead something to yearn for,with dreams of your secret mushroom spots in full bloom.

Food  has become very important lately. From Slow Food to Weston Price, people are beginning to view food as more than simple sustenance.  People call it a movement.  The food movement.  A movement based around consumption . Not consumption in the sense that we’ve come to know the word, as the end result of our collective inhalation of the worlds resources. This is a consumption based on a keen awareness of what we’re eating, where it comes from, what it means, how it connects us to the past, and how it nourishes us both physically and culturally.  The life of the pig from birth to death is something that we have come to care about.  Wild boar is sought after, because we feel that animal had a full and healthy life.  This is revolutionary.  We’ve spent the last 50 years giving little thought to what went into our bodies. Ignoring thousands of years of accumulated human knowledge, we chose microwaves, frozen dinners, and twinkies.  Freeze dried, pre-packed “nutrition”, has replaced common sense. Our ancestors didn’t need to read a nutrition label to know something was good for them.  That knowledge was passed down through millennia of trial and error.  Generations of humans who had eaten and thrived off foods that nourish. The culture of our species is tied to its food, and for too long we have ignored that culture in favor of convenience.  In one generation we have forgotten the lessons of hundreds of past generations. Those who hunted, fished, canned, grew, foraged, and thrived.  Foraging is not a new phenomenon.  It is the oldest example of food. When we forage, we connect ourselves with a lineage that dates back to our first ancestors, and a cultural tradition that is in serious danger of being forgotten.


FacebookDiggTwitterGoogle BookmarksGoogle ReaderBlogger PostShare
 

I recently heard an interview of an author who’s written a book called “where locavores get it wrong…”.  His basic thesis is that for someone who is concerned with the carbon footprint of their food, local is often not the right choice. It often is of course, but sometimes it makes more sense to import snap peas from Uganda than it does to walk down to the farmers market.  I guess this is true. I imagine the man did his research, as he was being interviewed on a show I trust, so I’m going to  take it as a given that he’s not lying. So that begs the question…why eat local?  If we can get snap peas year round from disparate corners of the globe, always snappy and fresh (or at least fresh-ish), and at the same time reduce our carbon footprint, why all this talk of eating local?

The answer that I’ve come to (full disclosure, Michael Pollan was also on the show, and he had a similar idea to the one I’m about to espouse, but I swear I thought it before he said it on the show) is that local food is about more than food. Wild food is about more than food.  People love wild foods, they’re clearly delicious, often more nutritious (and I believe if the author had done his research on foraged foods he would have found they are much more carbon efficient, but put that aside for a second), but I’m not sure that’s the main reason people love them. To me wild food is almost more about the connection to the place I live. I’ve lived in San Francisco for two years now (just had my anniversary), and I feel more a part of this place that almost anywhere else on earth.  I’ve explored more of the Bay than I have in VT, and I grew up there. I meet people every day that are interested in what I’m doing, and want to be involved. I know that a week after the first rains I’m going to mushroom forage, I know who I’m going with, I know what I will (or should) find. I’m honestly looking forward to going up to Mendecino next week to collect acorns, and making plans for the best way to get to the wild onions before the landscapers get them next spring. I feel a part of this place, and that has all sprung from my interest in the foods of this place.  I throw dinners that have become some of the most memorable meals of my life. I know chefs all over the city, and always know if I have a question about the food business I can ask Ian at Far West Fungi.  The people I call friends are the people who are actively working towards changing the way America eats. Creative people who, through their creativity, inspire people to see the world in a different way.

Local food is about much more it’s carbon footprint. That’s important of course, but what the local food movement is really about goes beyond the eating. It goes to a connection with the place you live, and the people that make that place important. When you buy a mushroom from a forager (or a farmer), you support that person, their community, expand your own community, and get to know the place you call home just a little bit better.

FacebookDiggTwitterGoogle BookmarksGoogle ReaderBlogger PostShare
Sep 022009
 

My Eat Real marathon weekend of sea bean proselytizing is over.  It was great to get out and talk to people about what we’re up to, and really exciting to see how into people are.  Foraging is often a lonely pursuit, and I get the feeling that people are often a bit confused about just what it is we’re trying to do at forageSF, so getting face to face with people and answering questions about what we’re about was great.  So great in fact that I’m going to start a push to get into some local farmers markets. It was originally my intention, but the focus moved a bit over the last year, and it got put on the back burner.  The problem with selling wild food in a certified market (meaning that everyone there is the primary producer) is that no one actually produces wild food.  We forage it, so we are as close to producers as any human gets, but not close enough.  It’s a pretty funny situation to be in, what makes the food so interesting to me and to others is the exact reason it can’t be sold.  I talked to a couple farmers market managers who seemed to think we could find some common ground, so I’m optimistic.  So look for us at your farmers market soon!

FacebookDiggTwitterGoogle BookmarksGoogle ReaderBlogger PostShare
Sep 012009
 

boxpic

This months box:

Dried Porcini and Morel Mushrooms (Mendocino/Humboldt Valley)

Dried Mushrooms, left to refresh in water for about 20 minutes, can be cooked just like fresh. It takes about 10 lbs of fresh wild mushrooms to make 1 lb dried.  Drying actually concentrates the flavor of many mushrooms, such as the bolete.  The Boletus edulis mushroom (bolete) was first described in 1783 by the French botanist Pierre Bulliard and still bears its original name. The Porcini, or King Bolete, is always an exciting find in California since they’re rare and delicious. Porcini are great sautéed with a little (or a lot) of butter.

Orange and Foraged Lemon Juice

Foraged in our own backyard, these lemons were rescued from certain rotting.  We got some fresh squeezed OJ and added foraged lemon juice to give it a good sour bite.

Sea beans (Bolinas)

Pickle weed is a small succulent, with leaves that are waxy on the outside and full of moisture on the inside. Its leaves are long, thin, and round, like little fingers. Pickleweed flowers between April and September, but its tiny yellow flowers can only be seen upon careful examination. Pickle weed grows in the low- to middle-tide zone in the marsh, which means that it gets covered up by water some of the time.  It’s delicious fresh as a garnish, or if you want to get creative in the early morning hours, check out the recipe below.

Wild Foraged Bay Leaves

The very same bay laurel leaves that you see (and smell) all over California, can be used in cooking. The aroma is a bit stronger than store bought, so use sparingly in your favorite soups.

Wild Foraged Blackberries

That’s right, collected just yesterday…they’re delicious.  We had to exercise some serious self control not to eat them all as we picked.  These blackberries come from Mendocino county.

Seabeans Sauteed with onions

This week we wanted to give you an idea of a good way to cook those seabeans you get so often in your box. Here they are, sautéed with some onions, garlic, pepper, and just a pinch of sugar to cut the saltiness. Hope you like them.

Wild Foraged Mint

Use this just like regular mint, the taste is a bit more intense with the wild variety.

FacebookDiggTwitterGoogle BookmarksGoogle ReaderBlogger PostShare
 

Wild Radish Seed Pods

Wild Radish seed pods are my most recent  discovery.  As if the months of delicious leaves and flowers the wild radish provides weren’t enough, here they come with seedpods. I like to saute them up to garnish salad, but they can also be steamed.

Wild Radish is english for Raphanus raphanistrum, in the family Brassicaceae. It is a winter annual with highly lobed leaves covered in short stiff hairs.  It grows more or less everywhere in the Bay Area. When you look out into a field covered with small white or yellow flowers, its probably wild radish.

Wild_radish

Wild mustard (Brassica kaber) grows in the same area, and can be distinguished by its yellow flowers.  The problem is that wild radish and mustard like to interbreed (hybridize if you will), to such an extent, that you rarely see either pure white or pure yellow flowers. Generally they’re white with yellow or purple interior tint.  I personally don’t think it really matters.  I’ve noticed that leaves that seem more mustard than radish are more tender, and a bit spicier.  The seedpods seem more or less the same.

Once you find a good patch of pods, its easy to collect a couple pounds in 20 minutes.  The technique I’ve settled on is to grab the stem close to the base, and slide my hand up, pulling off pods into my hands as I go.  It’s incredibly satisfying to hear the pop pop pop as they slide off the stem.  I usually cook them together, and they always turn out good. Unfortunatly the season for these has pretty much passed (although I was up at mt.tam leading a plant walk on sunday, and saw a couple), so store this knowledge away for next year. Below is a recipe, with bacon, for these delicious little treasures.

Serves 4

1/2 lb (4-5 handfulls) of seed pods

1/2 lb bacon (Get it from bi-rite or some other reputable source. We’re lucky to have a great local meat economy in the bay, its a shame not to use it. Know your meat!)

4-6 heads little gem greens (marin roots has the best, but not cheap)

8 Nastertium flowers

2.5 oz  Stilton Blue Cheese (about 3 Tbsp)

6 Tbsp cider vinegar

2 Tbsp heavy cream

1/4 Cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp sugar

Dressing: Add vinegar and cream, then whisk together with some salt and pepper. Whisk in the sugar until it dissolves, and then whisk in half of the cheese. Gradually whisk in the olive oil. Add seasoning to taste

Seed Pods: Cut the bacon into 1 inch chunks, and cook over medium heat until it releases some of its fat.  Throw in Seed pods, and saute  until tender (about 4 minutes), add salt and pepper to taste.

Wash and dry the Little Gems.  Cut off the end, and, using your hands, toss in mixing bowl with 2 Tbsp dressing and 1/4 C seed pods.  Arrange on plate, with 2 nastertium flowers. Crumble remaining cheese on top.

That’s it! Unfortunatly I don’t have any good pictures of this salad, but if you make it, be sure to send me a photo, Ill put it on my site.

FacebookDiggTwitterGoogle BookmarksGoogle ReaderBlogger PostShare
 

ForageSF is teaming up with the Eat Real festival to organize a series of guided forages, a wild food dinner with Radio Afrika to benefit La Cucina, as well as a foraging identification/canning exchange in Jack London square. There will be two sets of walks, one sometime in early August that will end in a dinner focused on wild foraged food.  Walk around the city learning what plants are edible, then get to eat a delicious meal made with those very same plants. The second set will be on Friday August 28th.  We’ll all go out, forage around for a couple hours, then meet in Jack London square to identify/exchange/can what we found.  I’ll also be giving a talk on forageSF, and wild food in general.  Should be a good time.  This is all still in planning, but check out http://eatrealfest.com/ in a couple weeks for more info.

FacebookDiggTwitterGoogle BookmarksGoogle ReaderBlogger PostShare